A) Sand B) Gravel C) Coconut fiber or peat moss D) Dry paper towels
A) Salt water B) Tap water straight from the faucet C) Distilled water D) Dechlorinated tap water or spring water
A) 90-100°F (32-38°C) B) 60-70°F (15-21°C) C) 80-90°F (27-32°C) D) 40-50°F (4-10°C)
A) Live insects (crickets, mealworms) B) Dog food C) Fish flakes D) Fruits and vegetables
A) They are immune to all skin damage. B) Handling makes them grow faster. C) They enjoy being handled. D) Their skin is very sensitive and can absorb oils and toxins.
A) They only live in water. B) They can live in both water and on land. C) They can fly. D) They only live on land.
A) Placing a dehumidifier near the enclosure B) Keeping the enclosure completely dry C) Using a heat lamp D) Regular misting with dechlorinated water
A) Black lights B) Low-level UVB lighting (for some species), or no special lighting. C) Bright, direct sunlight D) High-intensity heat lamps
A) To prevent the spread of diseases or parasites. B) Quarantine isn't necessary. C) Because salamanders like to be alone. D) To help them adjust to the new environment more quickly.
A) Loss of appetite and lethargy B) Increased activity and enthusiasm C) Increased shedding D) Brightening of colors
A) Hides are unnecessary. B) To make the enclosure look nicer. C) To help the salamander grow faster. D) To provide a safe and secure place for the salamander to retreat.
A) Spot clean daily and full clean every 1-2 weeks. B) Once a month C) Once a year D) Never
A) A glass jar filled with water B) A dry cardboard box C) A plastic container with damp paper towels. D) A mesh bag
A) Fleas B) Roundworms C) Ticks D) Mosquitoes
A) Release it into the wild. B) Give it over-the-counter medication for humans. C) Consult a veterinarian specializing in reptiles and amphibians. D) Wait and see if it gets better on its own.
A) Egg laying B) Hibernation C) Shedding skin D) The transformation from a larval aquatic form to a terrestrial or semi-aquatic adult form.
A) Research is unnecessary. B) All salamanders have the same care requirements. C) Salamanders don't need special care. D) Different species have different temperature, humidity, and dietary requirements.
A) Wrinkled skin B) Shiny skin C) Increased activity D) Increased appetite
A) Only through their lungs. B) Only through their gills. C) Only through their nose. D) Through their skin, gills (in larvae and some adults), and lungs (in some adults).
A) To maintain hydration and humidity. B) They do not need water dishes. C) To provide entertainment. D) To keep the enclosure cold
A) Vinegar B) Pet safe enclosure cleaner C) Bleach D) Harsh chemicals and strong detergents
A) Playing loud music B) Adding new hiding spots or rearranging the enclosure. C) Bathing them frequently D) Placing a mirror in the enclosure
A) Leave it for them to eat later. B) Bury it in the substrate. C) It is good to leave it. D) Remove it promptly to prevent mold and bacteria growth.
A) From a reputable breeder or rescue organization. B) They are not sold. C) From the wild. D) From an illegal seller.
A) Poor water quality or unsanitary enclosure conditions. B) Exposure to sunlight. C) Eating too much. D) Over handling.
A) They are most active during the day. B) They never move. C) They are most active at night. D) They are active only in the spring.
A) Wash your hands never. B) Wash your hands thoroughly before and after handling. C) Wear insect repellent. D) Wear gloves and a mask.
A) Is always hot. B) Relies on external sources for body temperature regulation. C) Is always cold. D) Regulates its own body temperature.
A) Introduce them immediately. B) Exchange substrate between their containers. C) House them together in a small container first. D) Quarantine the new salamander for several weeks.
A) Pelleted food for reptiles B) Powdered sugar C) Small live foods such as daphnia or brine shrimp D) Large crickets |